The Balenciaga exhibition at the McCord Museum in Montreal is a must-see. And for good reason: the designer still amazes and inspires. Like all designers worthy of the name, we went to see the master's pieces on a hot Wednesday. We enjoyed wandering between the dresses and the fabric sample books while discovering the inner workings of the pieces with X-rays of them. One of them showed two pins left in the hem by the seamstress. Oops!
Balenciaga is best known for its evening wear of the 1950s and 1960s. The outfits, with their ample and rounded shapes, contrasted with the curved silhouettes of Dior and its New Look. The designer is also known for his tonneau lines with rounded backs and off-centre waistlines (the 'semi-ajusté'), the balloon jacket, the tunic dress and the bag dress. Trained as a tailor and dressmaker, Balenciaga was master of everything: fabric selection and creation, design and pattern. Even Chanel said of him: 'Balenciaga is a couturier whereas other designers are fashion designers'.
What is most surprising about the designer is the contemporary look of his creations. A visit to the last part of the exhibition confirms his contribution to the fashion world. It presents pieces by designers influenced or claiming to be influenced by Balenciaga.
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Among the dreamy evening dresses, trimmings and revisited feminine silhouettes, an evening outfit consisting of a dress and a cape catches our attention. Its apparent simplicity reveals Balenciaga's talent for cut and minimalism. Without restricting the body, the designer manages to make the model feel feminine.
Balenciaga is also known for his knowledge of fabrics and their drapery. The fabric will often dictate the design of his clothes. It is this mastery that will allow him to create evening dresses with perfect volume, as demonstrated by this balloon dress whose front panel is attached below the model's knee to allow for this bouffant that will follow her every move.
Balenciaga also impresses with its embroidery and trimmings. The pink feather frock coat shown is stunning and could be part of a collection from last spring.